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Affiliate Links:
- Dual Mount Sink: https://amzn.to/3gQVTox
- Delta Touch Faucet: https://homedepot.sjv.io/MXDmNM
- Garbage Disposal: homedepot.sjv.io/jWnrOM
In this video I swap out our sink for a Dual-mount (Undermount or Topmount) sink.
We wanted to swap our shallow dual basin sink for a deeper single basin. We picked a dual-mount sink specifically since we wanted to be able to re-use the same sink when we remodel our kitchen. I found this sink (KINGO HOME Commercial 33″x 22″ Inch 10 Inch Extra Deep Handmade Top Mount T304 Stainless Steel Drop-In Single Bowl Kitchen Sink) on amazon. At the time it was around $200 dollars but the price changes so be sure to use the link below for the most up to date pricing – this is an affiliate link so I get a couple pennies if you use it and it also helps support my channel, thanks in advance!
1. Measure your sink and cabinet
Obviously, you’ll need to make sure what you’re buying fits into the space you have. Most sink bases are 36″ but that’s not always the case. Typically, a 33″ sink will fit into a 36″ sink base cabinet but definitely measure to be sure.
2. Measure your drain line height!
I don’t get to this until about the 11:00 min mark in the video, but it’s something I should have looked at before I decided to go with a deeper sink.
Just like any home improvement project that should take a couple hours, this will now turn into tomorrow’s project.
I’ll have to move the outlet drain down below the outlet of the garbage disposal. That means I’ll have to cut the back of the cabinet out to do this. This is all due to the new sink is deeper than the original. For now, it’s hooked up temporarily but it shouldn’t be this way.
Typically, the outlet drain is below the sink strainer and about the same height as the top of the P-trap or even below the P-trap, which is fine. The P-trap is designed to hold water in it and act as a seal to prevent sewer gasses from coming back up into the house. In this case, this entire line will be acting as a P-trap and water is going to sit up to the drain level inside the garbage disposal, which is not good. I don’t know that it’s really harmful other than shortening the life of the garbage disposal, maybe, but it will probably start to stink if this is sitting in water all of the time. When I run the garbage disposal it still pumps water out and drains just fine, but it shouldn’t be this way, and I’m going to have to fix that.
I also don’t like the fact that my water filter drain is below the standing water line even though it does have a check valve.
To give you an idea for clearance, and you’ll want to check this before you start, I have about 21 inches from the floor of the cabinet up to the bottom of the sink and about 16″ to the top of the disposal outlet drain.
3. What does Dual-Mount sink mean?
We picked a dual-mount sink specifically since we wanted to be able to re-use the same sink when we remodel our kitchen. Dual-mount just means it can be mounted over or under the counter top.
4. Supplies and Tools
- New sink
- New Faucet (optional)
- New Drain kit, I use this new one from Snappy-Trap that I really like
- New Garbage disposal with plug kit (optional)
- Tape Measure
- Pencil or Marker
- A straight edge
- 100% Silicone
- Screw drivers
- Knife
- Jig Saw
- Template
- Bucket to catch water
5. Flush the drains
Go ahead and add some soap, plug the sink and fill them up with hot water, then empty them to flush the lines out. This will help get any nasty water out of the P-trap so it won’t be as bad to deal with when you pull the drain lines apart.
While the sink fills you can empty the contents of the cabinet since you will need full access inside the cabinet.
6. Shut off the water
Before you start, you should locate the main shutoff to your house. It’s good to know where it is just in case of an emergency in the future. This could be the water meter or a shutoff valve outside your home. It will likely be located near the main water supply and will be the first point of entry for your water lines.
You can use the valves under the sink to shut the water off and disconnect the supply lines. Keep in mind that some of these valves don’t shut off all the way, especially if they are older. It’s a good idea to make sure the valve is shut off all the way by opening the faucet to see if water still flows. If so, you will need to shut the main of to your entire house.
7. Disconnect the Drain
With the supply lines shut off, you can disconnect the drains. Use a pail to catch the water left in the P-trap. This is where you’ll be thankful you flushed the lines with hot water earlier.
8. Remove the sink clips
You should be able to locate the sink clips from underneath, there will be a few of them all the way around the perimeter and they look like this.
Back them out and remove them, then cut the caulking out from around the sink.
9. Remove the sink
I find it easiest to gently push the sink from the bottom to get it to release and come out. Once the sink is out, it’s a lot easier to remove the faucet if you’re going to be reusing it.
10. Measure and cut if necessary.
I determined that the template was not the right size so I measured by hand and used a straight edge to mark the new hole. Be careful not to mark past the cut, Sharpie and be difficult to erase from some surfaces.
If you are cutting into a wooden countertop, this will be pretty easy. If it’s solid surface like Quarts or Granite, you’re better off hiring a professional to do this part. A local kitchen and bath remodeling company can probably do this for you and on average this costs less than $200.
11. Check for clearance
Measure underneath the countertop to make sure you have clearance from the cabinet box itself.
12. Cut as necessary
13. Dry fit
Check to make sure the sink will fit before going any farther. I would up with an overall cut of 21-1/8″ x 31-7/8″ but I should have made it 21-1/4″ x 32″. That would have made it a little easier to get the sink clips in later and the flange would have covered it no problem.
14. Clean up and clear water supply lines.
Once you’re done cutting, use a pail to catch the water and gently crack the supply lines open. This will flush any saw dust or trash out of the valves and keep that trash from entering you new faucet.
15. Mount the faucet to the sink
It’s a million times easier to do this with the sink out so go ahead and mount the faucet and other accessories to the sink.
16. Attach the Sink Clips
I wish I would have done this first and attached the clips to the sink before dropping it in. I didn’t think I was going to have as much trouble getting the clip in as I did but hind sight is 20/20.
17. Apply caulking and set the sink.
Apply caulking to either the underside of the sink or on the counter top itself.
Be sure to wipe off any excess silicone that may have oozed out from around the sink. You’ll add another bead of caulk later but for now you don’t want this to dry on you while you tighten the sink clips from underneath.
18. Tighten the sink clips
This part can be pretty difficult since space is extremely limited. The clips should screw down and squeeze the sink to the counter top.
19. Caulk the top
Add another bead of caulk around the outside edge of the sink and wipe off any excess.
20. Install the drain and reconnect the supply lines.
I have a video on installing a garbage disposal so I’ll skip ahead to already having that accomplished.
21. Drain line issues
I’ll have to move the outlet drain down below the outlet of the garbage disposal. That means I’ll have to cut the back of the cabinet out to do this. This is all due to the new sink is deeper than the original. For now, it’s hooked up temporarily but it shouldn’t be this way.
Typically, the outlet drain is below the sink strainer and about the same height as the top of the P-trap or even below the P-trap, which is fine. The P-trap is designed to hold water in it and act as a seal to prevent sewer gasses from coming back up into the house. In this case, this entire line will be acting as a P-trap and water is going to sit up to the drain level inside the garbage disposal, which is not good. I don’t know that it’s really harmful other than shortening the life of the garbage disposal, maybe, but it will probably start to stink if this is sitting in water all of the time. When I run the garbage disposal it still pumps water out and drains just fine, but it shouldn’t be this way, and I’m going to have to fix that.
I also don’t like the fact that my water filter drain is below the standing water line even though it does have a check valve.
To give you an idea for clearance, and you’ll want to check this before you start, I have about 21 inches from the floor of the cabinet up to the bottom of the sink and about 16″ to the top of the disposal outlet drain.
22. Finally done!
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